The Baunei Coast in Sardinia is, without question, one of the most stunning stretches of coastline I’ve seen in Europe. I took a day trip here while spending a few weeks in Sardinia last summer, and it turned out to be one of the most memorable days of my entire trip. In this guide, I’m sharing everything you need to plan your visit, from boat logistics and the best beaches to hiking, where to stay, and what I wish I’d known before going.
Where places like Costa Smeralda feel glamorous and buzzing with travelers enjoying sandy coves and upscale beach clubs, the Baunei Coast feels raw, dramatic, and completely untamed. Roads don’t hug the sea here. Beaches aren’t lined with umbrellas or sunbeds. Instead, you get limestone cliffs plunging straight into the Mediterranean, hidden coves you can only reach by boat or on foot, and water so clear it barely looks real.
I explored the Baunei Coast as a day trip by hiring a dinghy with a private skipper, departing from Cala Gonone. My day exploring the coast was hands down one of the best travel days I’ve had in Italy. Having a local skipper meant I could reach the most beautiful beaches, linger wherever I wanted, and skip the rush of larger tour groups entirely.
Read on for everything you need to know about visiting the Baunei Coast!
Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for the Best Hotels and Things to Do on the Baunei Coast:
The Baunei Coast is best explored from either Cala Gonone (or nearby Orosei), where most boat tours and dinghy rentals depart. I’d recommend basing yourself in one of these towns for at least two to three nights.
Hotels
- Su Gologone Experience Hotel ($$), for the best art-filled countryside escape with one of Sardinia’s most famous traditional restaurants
- Hotel Nettuno ($), for the best family-run base in Cala Gonone with standout personal service
- I Ginepri Hotel ($), for the best mid-range hotel with a pool and Gulf of Orosei views
Airbnbs
- 2 Bedroom Condo on the Sea in Cala Gonone, for the best seafront location in Cala Gonone with views right from your living room
- 2 Bedroom Apartment with Terrace in Orosei , for the best historic village base with a terrace overlooking Orosei’s main square
- 1 Bedroom Cliffside House in Cala Gonone, for the best stripped-back, off-grid feel with sunrise views over the Gulf of Orosei
Things to Do
- Dinghy Excursion with Skipper to Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzè, a guided half-day dinghy tour from Cala Gonone with stops at Cala Luna, Cala Goloritzè, and Piscine di Venere, plus snorkeling time with a local skipper and a small-group feel.
- Small Group Speed Boat Cruise to Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, and Cala Biriala, a full-day cruise for up to 12 guests departing from Santa Maria Navarrese, visiting three of the coast’s best beaches plus Grotta del Fico with plenty of time in the water.
- Gulf of Orosei Catamaran Day Trip from Arbatax, a full-day sailing excursion departing from Arbatax along the Gulf of Orosei with beach stops, snorkeling, and lunch included.
Travel Tips
- Rent a Car to Explore Sardinia — The best way to experience Sardinia is by car. We book our rental cars in Europe through Discover Cars and opt for full coverage insurance with trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt. Driving in Sardinia is easy once you’re outside the cities, and having a car makes reaching trailheads and coastal towns so much simpler. Book your car with Discover Cars here.
- Get Cell Data Before You Arrive — The easiest way to navigate Sardinia is with reliable cell data. We use Holafly unlimited data eSIMs for all international travel and recommend installing your eSIM before arrival so maps, directions, and ride-sharing work the moment you land. Pre-Purchase your Holafly eSIM here.
Helpful Guides to Plan Your Trip
I have a full set of Sardinia guides to help you plan your trip. Start with my Sardinia itinerary and things to do in Sardinia guide, then use my where to stay in Sardinia guide to choose your base. My best beaches in Sardinia guide covers the full island. And if you’re exploring more of northern Sardinia, don’t miss my guides to Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena, Alghero, La Pelosa Beach, and San Pantaleo.
The Ultimate Guide to the Baunei Coast, Sardinia
What to Know Before You Visit the Baunei Coast, Sardinia
Best Time to Visit
The Baunei Coast is best visited between June and September, when the sea is warm enough for swimming and boat tours run daily. July and August are peak season, so expect higher prices and busier beaches. I’d recommend June or September if you can swing it. The weather is still beautiful, the water is calm, and the trails and coves feel much more peaceful. Shoulder season is also easier for booking boats and finding availability at the better hotels.
How to Get to Baunei
The Baunei Coast stretches about 40 km along eastern Sardinia, and the two closest airports are Cagliari Airport in the south and Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport in the north. Both have daily flights to cities across Italy and Europe, especially during high season.
From Cagliari, the drive is about two hours (150 km). From Olbia, it’s closer to 2.5 hours (180 km). Both airports have car rental desks, though Olbia tends to have a larger selection of vehicles.
I’d recommend renting a car. Public transport in this part of Sardinia is limited. The roads to the coast are well-maintained, but some stretches are mountainous and winding, so give yourself a little extra time.
Rental Car Tip: We use Discover Cars for our rental cars in Europe, choose full coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt. Renting a car in Sardinia is quite easy. Book your car with Discover Cars here.
Cala Gonone vs. Santa Maria Navarrese
Most visitors to the Baunei Coast base themselves in one of two towns: Cala Gonone to the north or Santa Maria Navarrese to the south. Both work as launching points for boat tours and beach days, but the vibe is different.
Cala Gonone is the more established option. The town has a wider range of hotels and restaurants, a lively waterfront, and easy boat access to beaches like Cala Luna and Cala Mariolu. Santa Maria Navarrese is smaller and quieter, with a more laidback feel. Boats depart from here for the southern beaches, and the town itself has a charm that’s hard to beat.
My Take: Cala Gonone is the better base if you want convenience, dining options, and proximity to the most popular beaches. Santa Maria Navarrese is ideal if you prefer something more intimate and don’t mind a slightly longer boat ride to the northern coves.
Is Baunei Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. The Baunei Coast is one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline I’ve seen in all of the Mediterranean. The cliffs are dramatic and the water is impossibly clear. This coast is rugged and wild, and the fact that most beaches are only reachable by boat or on foot is a big part of what makes it so special.
Baunei Coast vs. Costa Smeralda
These two coastlines feel like different worlds. The Baunei Coast is for travelers who want wild, boat-access-only beaches, serious hiking, and raw natural beauty. There’s very little development here, and that’s the draw.
Costa Smeralda leans more glamorous. The sandy coves are easy to reach and ideal for families, and the area has luxury resorts, beach clubs, and excellent restaurants. I love both, honestly. My advice is to spend time on each coast if your trip allows for it.
Do I Need to Rent a Car?
Yes. A rental car is the best way to explore the Baunei Coast. The freedom to drive between villages, trailheads, and boat departure points makes all the difference, especially since public transport on this side of the island is limited or nonexistent.
I’d recommend booking your car in advance and picking it up at the airport when you arrive. During peak summer, rental cars sell out fast. Give yourself some lead time.
Rental Car Tip: We use Discover Cars for our rental cars in Europe, choose full coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt. Renting a car in Sardinia is quite easy. Book your car with Discover Cars here.
Travel Tip: If you’re traveling from a non-European country, you’ll need an International Driving Permit to rent a car in Italy. Make sure to arrange this before you leave home.
Where to Stay on the Baunei Coast
Cala Gonone is one of the best bases for exploring the Baunei Coast. The town sits right on the water, and from here you can reach the beaches by boat in under an hour. Along this stretch of Sardinian coastline you’ll find luxury villas, countryside hotels, small-town apartments, and rental homes sprinkled through the mountains. I had originally planned to spend three nights at Su Gologone Experience Hotel, but ended up only visiting for the day. Even so, I seriously regret not staying longer. The property is incredible. The art program alone is reason enough to book, and the immersive feel of the whole place stays with you. I had an amazing lunch at their restaurant and spent some time shopping at the artisan boutique. Next time I’m in Sardinia, this hotel is at the top of my list.
Best Hotels on the Baunei Coast
- Su Gologone Experience Hotel ($$), for a whitewashed rural retreat in the Supramonte foothills near Oliena, with art-filled rooms, a spring-fed pool, craft workshops, and spit-roasted Sardinian feasts by open fire
- Hotel Nettuno ($), for a spotless, family-run three-star in the center of Cala Gonone with a small heated pool, generous breakfast, and the port for Gulf of Orosei boat trips a short walk away
- I Ginepri Hotel ($), for a recently renovated four-star in Cala Gonone with Mediterranean-style rooms, a garden pool with sea views, an on-site restaurant, and the beach just 300 meters downhill
Best Airbnbs on the Baunei Coast
- 2 Bedroom Condo on the Sea in Cala Gonone, for a bright, walkable spot right on the water in Cala Gonone where you can hear the waves from every room and walk to the port in minutes
- 2 Bedroom Apartment with Terrace in Orosei, for a beautifully restored apartment in a 17th-century building in the heart of Orosei, with vaulted ceilings, a jasmine-scented terrace, and restaurants right on your doorstep
- 2 Bedroom Villa with Sea Views near Orosei, for a peaceful, top-rated apartment in a country villa surrounded by greenery, about 3 km from Orosei, with a covered veranda overlooking the sea and free parking
- 1 Bedroom Cliffside House in Cala Gonone, for a simple, character-filled home built into the rocks above Cala Gonone, with an outdoor shower, a private terrace overlooking the gulf, and total quiet even in peak season
Where to Eat on the Baunei Coast
Dining along the Baunei Coast is all about fresh seafood, Sardinian pastas, and local wines. In Cala Gonone, I’d recommend Ristorante Acquarius for seafood right on the harbor and Ristorante Il Pescatore for a more laidback meal with views. Up in the town of Baunei, Hotel Ristorante S’Abba e S’Ollu serves hearty traditional dishes. And if you make it to Su Gologone, the restaurant there is worth a meal on its own. Don’t skip the Cannonau wine wherever you eat.
How to Experience the Gulf of Orosei
The Gulf of Orosei can be explored in a few different ways. You can hike the mountainous trails that lead down to the beaches, or you can see the coastline from the water by boat. I opted for a full boat day along the Baunei Coast, spending time at the most beautiful beaches, swimming in secluded coves, and taking in the dramatic scenery from the sea.
Hiking
The trails along the Baunei Coast weave through Mediterranean shrubs and rugged limestone landscapes. Several beaches can only be reached on foot, and these are not casual walks. Expect rocky terrain, steep descents and ascents, and several hours of hiking for some routes. The trail to Cala Goloritzè, for example, takes over two hours each way.
I’d recommend hiking only if you’re experienced and prepared. Carry plenty of water and sun protection, and wear sturdy hiking shoes. Leave the flip flops at the hotel. July and August are the hottest months, and the temperatures are sweltering with limited shade on many of the trails. I’d avoid hiking entirely during those months.
That said, if you love the outdoors and are comfortable with long distances and rugged terrain, hiking is a beautiful way to experience this coast. Reaching a beach like Goloritzè on foot after a challenging descent is incredibly rewarding.
Hire a Dinghy Without a Skipper (Boat Options with No License)
You can also hire a dinghy and navigate the coastline on your own, even without a boat license. Small motorboats (usually 40hp) are available for day rental, and no license is required. This gives you the freedom to choose where you stop and how long you stay, and it’s often more affordable than hiring with a skipper. Expect to pay around €120–180 per day depending on the season and boat size, plus fuel.
Travel Tip: I’d recommend having some experience on the water before going this route. Conditions along the coast can get windy, and you’ll want to feel confident handling a small boat in open water.
Hire a Dinghy With a Skipper or a Yacht Boat Excursion
I spent a full day exploring the Baunei Coast by boat, and this is the option I chose. I hired a dinghy with a skipper from Cala Gonone Rental, which meant I could skip the group tour and enjoy a tailored, private experience. We spent five hours on the water, and it showed me why this stretch of coastline is so spectacular. A private skipper runs around €250–350 for a half day, depending on the season.
Traveling with family or friends opens up more options. A dinghy with a skipper works well for smaller groups. For larger parties, a yacht excursion is a great way to spend a day hopping between coves and beaches. This catamaran day trip departs from Arbatax and includes lunch, snorkeling, and stops at some of the best spots in the Gulf of Orosei.
Join a Group Boat Tour with Limited Stops
A group tour is the most budget-friendly way to see the coast. These tours cover the highlights and are a solid option if you’d rather not navigate on your own. This dinghy tour from Cala Gonone stops at Cala Luna, Cala Goloritzè, and Piscine di Venere, with time to snorkel. For a smaller group of up to 12 people, this speed boat cruise covers Cala Goloritzé, Cala Biriala, and Cala Mariolu over a full day. Prices for group tours typically range from €40–80 per person.
The Best Beaches to Visit on the Baunei Coast
The Baunei Coast is home to some of the best beaches in Sardinia. Think turquoise water so clear it barely looks real, unspoiled coves backed by limestone cliffs, and hardly any development in sight. These are the beaches I’d prioritize along this incredible stretch of coastline.
Cala Luna
Cala Luna is one of the most iconic beaches on the Baunei Coast, and it lives up to the hype. Soaring limestone walls curve around the bay, and enormous sea caves carve natural pockets of shade along the shore. Those caves are part of what makes this beach so special. They’re also why filmmakers have been drawn here over the years. The shoreline is a mix of soft sand and small stones, and the water shifts from translucent turquoise near the shore to a deep sapphire blue further out.
Even though Cala Luna is one of the best-known beaches on Sardinia’s east coast, it still feels wild. There’s no road access. You arrive by boat or on foot, and that alone gives the whole experience a sense of adventure. Hikers descend from inland trails, kayakers paddle in from nearby coves, and swimmers linger along the shoreline all afternoon.
I’d recommend visiting in the morning. The sea is calmest early, and afternoon winds can stir things up. A few simple refreshment stands operate in high season, but development is minimal.
Cala Goloritzè
Cala Goloritzè is one of those places that genuinely takes your breath away. The cove is a protected natural monument, and you can see why the moment you arrive. A brilliant white pebble shore meets impossibly clear water, and a natural rock arch frames the sea like something out of a film. This feels less like a typical beach and more like a geological wonder.
There are no umbrellas here. No bars. No commercial activity at all. The appeal is entirely in the raw beauty and the strict conservation rules that protect it. Motorboats can’t approach the shoreline, which keeps the water crystal clear and the atmosphere peaceful.
To reach Cala Goloritzè, you either take a boat drop-off offshore and swim in, or you hike down from above. The hike is demanding but worth it. The light here is incredible, especially in the early morning and late afternoon when everything turns golden.
Cala Birìala (or Biriola)
Cala Birìala feels like a secret. Smaller and more intimate than its famous neighbors, this cove is tucked between rugged limestone cliffs with low Mediterranean scrub behind it. Fewer visitors make it here, and that quiet atmosphere is a big part of the draw. A shore of pale pebbles and coarse sand meets exceptionally clear water that’s ideal for snorkeling.
The best way to reach Cala Birìala is by boat, and you’ll need to swim in to shore since boats anchor offshore. There are no facilities here, so bring water and snacks. The setting is simple and completely natural. Just sea and scenery.
Cala dei Gabbiani
Cala dei Gabbiani is one of the quieter beaches along the Baunei Coast, and I love it for that reason. The shore is smooth white pebbles, the water is that same unreal turquoise, and you’ll often have far more space to yourself here than at the more famous coves nearby. For anyone who values solitude over scenery crowds, this one is a win.
You can reach Cala dei Gabbiani by boat or by hiking from the Golgo Plateau. There are no services on the beach, so come prepared. The lack of development is exactly what makes it feel so untouched.
Cala Sisine
Cala Sisine has a broader, more open feel compared to the narrow coves further south. Located at the mouth of a valley, the beach stretches about 500 meters long and 100 meters wide, set against dramatic cliffs and rugged inland terrain. The extra space means you can actually spread out here without feeling crowded.
You can reach Cala Sisine by boat or via a roughly 30-minute hike from an inland trail starting at Planu ‘e Murta, which requires a 4×4. Other cars must park at Ololbissi and hike around 8 km from there. Basic seasonal services run during the summer months, but development is minimal. This is a great option if you want the Baunei scenery with a bit more breathing room.
Piscine di Venere
Piscine di Venere, or the “Pools of Venus,” is not a traditional beach. The water here is shaped by smooth rock formations into shallow, crystal-clear pools. The colors range from pale aqua to deep turquoise, depending on the light. Flat limestone slabs and natural rock shelves create perfect spots for sunbathing between swims.
Most people visit Piscine di Venere as a swim stop on boat tours, and the calm, clear conditions make it ideal for floating. The shoreline is narrow and there are no facilities, so this is more of a stop-and-swim spot than a full beach day.
Cala Mariolu
Cala Mariolu is instantly recognizable. The shoreline is made of tiny, smooth white and soft pink pebbles that shimmer under the sun and make the water appear like it’s glowing. Locals call it “Is Pulige de Nie,” meaning “snowflakes.” The name is a nod to the color and texture of the stones, and once you see them in person, it makes perfect sense.
Access to Cala Mariolu is regulated. Only a limited number of boats are permitted each day to protect the fragile ecosystem. During peak summer months, the beach fills up quickly, often by mid-morning. Plan to get here early.
Facilities are extremely limited, so come prepared with water, snacks, and sun protection. Most boat tours allocate around an hour here, so Cala Mariolu is more of a scenic swim stop than an all-day beach setup.
Things to Do on the Baunei Coast
The beaches get most of the attention here, and rightfully so. But the Baunei Coast has just as much to offer on land. From challenging coastal hikes to ancient villages tucked into the hills, I found plenty of reasons to stay off the boat for a day.
Go for a Hike in the National Park of the Gulf of Orosei and Gennargentu
If you love being on foot, the hiking along the Baunei Coast is incredible. Sardinia has three national parks, and the National Park of the Gulf of Orosei and Gennargentu is home to one of Europe’s most challenging trails: Selvaggio Blu.
The full route takes about a week to complete and is quite challenging. For example, some sections require abseiling and graded climbing. That said, you can also hike smaller day-trip sections if you want a taste without the full commitment.
A more approachable option is the Pedra Longa Trail, a roughly 9km route starting in Santa Maria Navarrese. The views along the coast are stunning, with sapphire water below and classic Mediterranean scrubland all around. I’d recommend hiking in the fall or spring, when temperatures are comfortable and the trails are quieter.
Visit the Nuragic Villages
The coastline gets all the love, but the villages surrounding the Gulf of Orosei are absolutely worth your time. This area is the heart of Nuragic Sardinia, named for the island’s ancient Nuragic civilization dating back thousands of years. The culture here runs deep, and you can feel it the moment you step into one of these towns.
Orosei is one of the prettiest towns in the region. The historic center has pastel and stone facades, small piazzas, and quiet churches. The whole place has a relaxed, lived-in feel. Just outside of town, Osala Beach is a wide, accessible stretch of sand that is perfect for a low-key afternoon by the water.
Dorgali is known for its Sardinian handicrafts and wine production. I’d recommend sampling the Cannonau wine, visiting the Municipal Archeological Museum, or browsing the local ceramics and textiles. Cala Gonone and hiking trails into the Supramonte mountains are both easy to reach from here.
The region is also home to numerous Nuraghe archeological sites dating back to the 14th century BC. They are well worth a visit if you have the time.
Visit Grotta del Fico
Grotta del Fico is one of the few cave systems along the Baunei Coast that’s actually open to the public, and it’s a cool detour from a day on the water. The cave was once a habitat for Mediterranean monk seals, and today you can explore it on a guided tour that takes you through impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations deep inside the cliff. The whole thing takes about an hour.
The cave is accessible by boat from both Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese, with a short walk from the landing point to the entrance. Many group boat tours include a stop here, so check your itinerary before booking separately. I’d recommend it if you’re looking for a break from the sun and want to see a completely different side of this coastline.
Explore the Golgo Plateau
Head inland from the town of Baunei and you’ll reach the Altopiano del Golgo (Golgo Plateau), a vast highland plateau that feels like a completely different world from the turquoise coves below. The landscape up here is rugged and open: ancient holm oaks, wild grazing land, dry stone walls, and the tiny rural church of San Pietro sitting quietly at the center of it all. The plateau is also home to Su Sterru, one of the deepest karst chasms in Europe. The opening drops nearly 295 meters straight down into the earth. You can walk right up to the fenced edge and peer in, and the scale of it is hard to wrap your head around.
The Golgo Plateau is also where several of the best coastal hikes begin, including the trails down to Cala Goloritzè and Cala dei Gabbiani. Even if you’re not planning a hike, the plateau is worth a half-day trip on its own. The drive up from Baunei is winding but manageable with a rental car, and the contrast between this quiet, windswept highland and the dramatic coastline below gives you a fuller picture of what makes this corner of Sardinia so special.
Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting the Baunei Coast
How do you get to the Baunei Coast beaches?
Most beaches along the Baunei Coast are only reachable by boat or on foot. There are no roads leading to the shoreline. I hired a dinghy with a private skipper from Cala Gonone Rental and spent the day hopping between coves, which gave me total flexibility on timing and stops.
Is it better to stay in Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navarrese?
Cala Gonone is the better base if you want more hotel and restaurant options, a lively waterfront, and quick boat access to the most popular beaches like Cala Luna and Cala Mariolu. Santa Maria Navarrese is smaller, quieter, and more laidback. I’d choose Cala Gonone for convenience and Santa Maria Navarrese if you prefer something more intimate.
What is the best time to visit the Baunei Coast?
June and September are my top picks. The weather is warm, the water is calm, and the beaches and trails are far less crowded than in July and August. Boat tours run daily from June through September, and shoulder season also means easier booking for boats and better hotel availability.
Do you need to book boats in advance?
I’d strongly recommend it, especially if you’re visiting in July or August. Private skippers and dinghy rentals book up fast during peak season. I arranged my boat through Cala Gonone Rental ahead of time, and I’m glad I did. Group tours are easier to find last-minute, but the best options still go quickly.
Can you drive to the beaches on the Baunei Coast?
No. Roads don’t reach the coastline here, and that’s a big part of what keeps these beaches so unspoiled. You’ll need a car to get to the departure towns (Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navarrese) and to reach trailheads, but the beaches themselves require a boat or a serious hike to access.
What should you bring for a day on the Baunei Coast?
Pack plenty of water, snacks, and solid sun protection. Most beaches have zero facilities (ie. no bars, umbrellas, or shade). If you’re hiking, sturdy shoes are a must (leave the flip flops behind). I’d also bring a snorkel if you have one; the water clarity at spots like Cala Birìala and Piscine di Venere is unreal.
How much does a boat tour of the Baunei Coast cost?
Group boat tours typically run €40–80 per person. A self-drive dinghy rental (no license required) costs around €120–180 per day plus fuel. I hired a private dinghy with a skipper for about €250–350 for a half day. For me, a private rental with skipper was the best option, as it provided total flexibility, the ability to get to locations before the crowds, and a local who knew exactly where to go.
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My favorite companies that offer the best coverage and rates are:
- World Nomads (best for all-around)
- Safety Wing (best for frequent travelers)
Xx,
Jessica
