Oltrarno, Florence: The Ultimate Guide to the Low-Key Cool Neighborhood

If you’re planning a trip to Florence, this guide is not to be missed. My second trip to Florence solidified it as one of my favorite cities in Italy, and the Oltrarno neighborhood is one of the lesser-known, better parts of the city. Florence has so much to see and do (and eat!), and Oltrarno is home to many of its true gems — from classic sights to ones you may not have thought of adding to your Florence itinerary.

I had the opportunity to really get to know the city during my second visit to Florence, slowly making our way over 8 nights through restaurants, museums, shops, and hotels. During that trip, the few nights we stayed in Oltrarno were without a doubt our favorites. From iconic landmarks, like the Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens, to hidden artisan shops, rooftop bars, and beautiful boutique stays, Oltrarno truly has it all.

Oltrarno, which translates to “the other side of the Arno”, is the neighborhood south of the Arno river, about a 15-20 minute walk from central Florence. As Florence grew rapidly through the 11th & 12th centuries and became an economic hub, it attracted an influx of merchants, artisans, and tradesmen to the area, who ultimately settled in this less-populated part of the city. In the two centuries that followed, wealthy and noble families began to build palaces and find residence in the Oltrarno, including the Medici family.

This combination of local artisans and lineages of craftsmanship with art, wealth, and opulence is what makes the energy and life in Oltrarno so unique. Read on to learn more about what made Oltrarno feel so magical for us and discover the must-sees, dos, stays, and eats in this low-key cool neighborhood.

Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for Where to Stay in Oltrarno, Florence:

Hotels

1. Hotel Lungarno ($$$), for the best luxury hotel on the river
2. Hotel Palazzo Guadagni ($$), for the best old-world luxury stay
3. AdAstra Suites ($$), for the best tucked-away hotel with luxury amenities
4. Ottantotto Firenze ($$), for the best chic, minimalist stay
5. SoprArno Suites ($$), for the best quaint bed and breakfast stay

Airbnbs

1. 1-Bedroom Apartment with Fresco Walls (Where I Stayed)
2. 1-Bedroom Chic Apartment
3. 2-Bedroom Airy Apartment
4. 1-Bedroom Condo with Terrace

Things to Do

1. Florence Sunset Food Tour in Oltrarno (What I Did)
2. Uffizi Gallery Guided Tour
3. Galleria dell’Accademia Guided Tour
4. The Best of Florence Walking Tour
5. Florence: Pasta Cooking Class with Unlimited Wine

Travel Tips

1. Get Cell Data Before You Arrive — We use Holafly unlimited data eSIMs (5% off!) for all international travel.
2. Book an Airport Transfer in Advance — We use Welcome Pickups for our private transfers to and from the airport.
3. Rent a Car for Tuscany and Day Trips — We use Discover Cars for our rental cars in Europe, choose full coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt.

Helpful Guides to Plan Your Trip

For more on Florence, don’t miss my Florence itinerary, guide to the best things to do in Florence, and my in-depth guide to where to stay in Florence, which covers the best neighborhoods to base yourself with curated hotels and apartments by vibe, budget, and travel style.

If you’re planning on visiting Tuscany, start with my Tuscany itinerary and guide to the best towns to base yourself in Tuscany, my regional guide to Val d’Orcia, and my guides to San Gimignano, Siena, Pienza, Montepulciano, and Montalcino!

Travel Guide to the Oltrarno, Florence Neighborhood

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What to Know Before Visiting Oltrarno

Where is Oltrarno?

Oltrarno is the area just south of the Arno (the Orange area on the map below). It stretches from San Frediano in the west to San Niccolo and Piazzale Michelangelo in the east, with the Santo Spirito in the center. From the city center, it’s about a leisurely 15-20 minutes via one of the several bridges that cross the river, including the famous Ponte Vecchio or even to Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria.

What is Oltrarno Known For?

Oltrarno is known for its distinct energy: an authentically local and artsy/boho feel, with a slower pace and fewer crowds. While the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens are often the main draws, the Oltrarno neighborhood is a destination for the best shopping, dining, nightlife, and a chance to experience the charm of residential life in Florence.

Is Oltrarno a Good Area to Stay in Florence?

Oltrarno can be one of the best areas to base yourself in Florence. For me, Oltrarno strikes the perfect balance between being close enough by foot to central Florence, but far enough away from the hustle and bustle of the crowds and the places that primarily cater to tourists. Staying in Oltrarno will give you a quieter, more local stay. You’ll feel like you’re experiencing Florence, not just visiting it.

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Where to Stay in Oltrarno

Fewer crowds mean a quieter and more authentic stay. While there aren’t as many hotel options in the more residential Oltrarno, there are some lovely apartments and boutique stays.

Best Hotels in Oltrarno

1. Hotel Lungarno ($$$), for the best luxury hotel on the river
2. Hotel Palazzo Guadagni ($$), for the best old-world luxury stay
3. AdAstra Suites ($$), for the best tucked-away hotel with luxury amenities
4. Ottantotto Firenze ($$), for the best chic, minimalist stay
5. SoprArno Suites ($$), for the best quaint bed and breakfast stay

Best Airbnbs in Oltrarno

1. 1-Bedroom Apartment with Fresco Walls (Where I Stayed)
2. 1-Bedroom Chic Apartment
3. 2-Bedroom Airy Apartment
4. 1-Bedroom Condo with Terrace

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What to Do in Oltrarno

Visit the Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens

One of my favorite mornings in the city was spent exploring the grand halls and rooms of the Palazzo Pitti and then strolling the Boboli Gardens behind it. Also known as the Pitti Palace, it was a Medici residence in the 15th century and later served as the residence of Napoleon Bonaparte during his rule over Italy. From the Royal Apartments of the Medici and Savoy Families and a Museum of Costume and Fashion, to a Gallery of Modern Art with 18th-century to 20th-century Italian paintings, there’s pretty much something for everyone to find interesting.

Plan to arrive when it opens and spend a few hours inside before heading behind the palace to the Boboli Gardens for some fresh air (but not a ton of shade, so plan accordingly!). If you have more time, check out the Bardini Gardens (Giardini Bardini), just five minutes away on foot, which is included with your Boboli Garden ticket.

Get Aperitivo in Piazza Santo Spirito

Piazza Santo Spirito is the lively main square in Oltrarno, full of bars, cafes, and restaurants. It’s where you’ll find yourself amongst local families enjoying an aperitivo and kids happily playing near the fountain. I highly recommend Loggia Roof Bar for stunning city views, incredible cocktails, small bites, and a lovely atmosphere.

Catch the Sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo

Find your way over to Piazzale Michelangelo to snag a seat on the steps for an iconic sunset, with views of the Arno, Ponte Vecchio, and Duomo. It can get pretty crowded, which is ideal for pickpockets, so be sure to keep an eye on your belongings and keep valuables securely stored.

Join a Food Tour through Oltrarno

I’ve personally found the best way to experience a city’s culture is through a food tour. Oltrarno really has some of the best Florence food on offer, and while there are some restaurants you’ll want to properly dine at, I highly recommend this sunset food tour through Oltrarno. It took us to about 5 locations throughout the walking tour, giving us a sense of the variety and history of the Florentine cuisine, from wine (and a wine window!) to classics and gelato.

Step Inside the Basilica di Santo Spirito

Don’t underestimate the Basilica di Santo Spirito for its almost oddly plain facade. The inside is breathtaking, where you’ll find a Michelangelo-crafted wooden crucifix surrounded by steeped, ornate ceilings and repeating arches. You’ll also find much fewer crowds than other Florentine landmarks, both within the church and in the lovely courtyard garden.

Get a Drink at a Wine Window

The popular, historic wine windows in Florence are indeed worth trying at least once or twice, even if the wine tends to be overpriced. Dating back to the 16th century, these wine windows began as a means for contactless transactions during the bubonic plague and were revived again in 2020 for the same reason. While there are several of them throughout the city, these ones in the Oltrarno neighborhood were some of my favorites.

• Babae, the first to reopen in Florence, tends to be the most popular, so anticipate a short line
• Fiaschetteria Fantappe, you almost won’t believe that you can get wine (or a spritz!) through the teeny tiny wooden door in the stone wall
• Le Volpi e l’Ulva, this small wine shop has an unofficial wine window here that you can get a glass of wine at!

Shop Local Artisans

Oltrarno’s artisan history is still very much alive today, with a high concentration of decades-old family-owned shops. You may even catch them mid-craft, from making jewelry to leather, paper, art, and food. If I had to choose one neighborhood to go shopping, it would be Oltrarno. So go with an extra bag, because there is a lot to love here, with even antique shops.

• Miato, for beautiful handmade cotton bags and jackets – definitely a unique gift
• Il Papiro, for super unique handmade paper products, including paper marbling demonstrations
• Castorina 1895, for intricate handmade accents and decor with especially beautiful mirrors and frames
• Giuliano Ricchi Jewelry, for handmade charms for bracelets and necklaces (Ring the bell on the front door and follow the path to the back, where you’ll likely find the artists in action)
• Antico Setificio Fiorentino, for handmade silks and intricately unique fabrics from one of the few remaining workshops for silk production left in the world
• Madova, for leather gloves from a family-owned shop since 1919
• Le Telerie Toscane di Giulia G., for traditional Tuscan linens and textiles
• La Casa Della Stampa Di Sarubbi Lorenzo, for high-quality, unique prints from antique engravings dating back to the 1600s
• Salumeria Pirgher Marzio, for an extensive selection of meats and cheeses (and samples of both!) that you can also vacuum pack to bring home

Take a Photo at Fotoautomatica

If you’ve got a few euros and four and a half minutes to spare, smile for one of the decades-old (since restored!) “Fotoautomatica” built-in photobooths. Spot the red booth built into the wall on the corner between Sbrino and S.forno. The classic black-and-white photo strip is a super fun souvenir.

Shop Vintage

Be sure to save some time (and room in your bag) to peruse a few of the several highly curated vintage shops. While not handmade, the owners take just as much pride in the art and history of their hand-picked pieces and collections. 

• Momo Vintage, for high-end accessories and designer clothing with super welcoming vibes
• Recollection by Albrici, for the unique curation of vintage dresses and accessories amongst antique furnishings
• Celeste Vintage, known specifically for its collection of designer pieces
• Clochard9.2, for high-quality and unique curation of menswear (only!)
• Vintage Gallery, for a mix of vintage and modern clothing, is known for its designer bags

See the Frescoes at Capella Brancacci

This super small Capella Brancacci chapel is covered in 16th-century Renaissance frescoes by Masalino and Masaccio (and later a third artist), commissioned by the wealthy merchant, Felice Brancacci. The sheer detail and scale of the paintings are worth the 20-30-minute visit, and the techniques used are known to have inspired some of the later greats, like Michelangelo.

Climb to Villa Bardini

Head uphill from the Arno to Villa Bardini for panoramic city views, historic statues, a Baroque staircase, and multiple gardens (and a pergola of wisteria in the spring!) to meander through. In the villa itself, there are often unique and changing art exhibitions.

Before making the climb, check out Museo Stefano Bardini at the bottom, which houses an eclectic collection of thousands of sculptures, paintings, and antiques from around the world. The building itself is worth a visit, with intricate ceilings, carvings, and striking blue walls.

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The Best Oltrarno Restaurants

The Oltrarno is the core of the best dining in the city, with some of the best cafes, gelato, and most authentic trattorias. While you’ll definitely want reservations for some, the less crowded neighborhood makes it possible to arrive at or just before opening to get a table for many.

• Dalla Lola — a laidback corner trattoria with about a dozen tables and a daily-changing menu. Don’t miss the fried ravioli and miso gnocchi. You’ll need online reservations for dinner, but you may be able to stop by an hour before it opens to get a table for lunch on the same day.
• Trattoria Cammillo — classic Florentine cuisine with a charmingly cluttered, lived-in character. It feels like it hasn’t changed since the 1940s and is proud of it. You’ll need a reservation (by phone only) as this place is becoming increasingly popular with travelers – it was our favorite!
• Trattoria La Casalinga — a quaint and authentic family-owned spot with a revolving door of loyal customers and super-friendly staff. It can get quite busy, so I’d highly recommend making a reservation in advance, though you might be able to get a table if you arrive shortly before opening.
• Ditta Artigianale — the perfect spot for a coffee and pastry to start the day
• Trattoria Sabatino — a rustic, no-frills, classically good osteria filled with loyal local customers. Plan to arrive 45-60 minutes before it opens to snag an early spot in line, both for lunch and dinner.
• S.forno — a cozy grab-and-go for baked goods and pantry staples
• Trattoria Da Ginone 1949 — a neighborhood classic frequented by locals for its homemade ricotta dumplings, classic steak Florentine, and super-friendly staff. Reservation highly recommended!
• PRAE — a modern grab-and-go spot with everything from savory paninis, charcuterie, and breads to sweet buns, cookies, and cakes. We especially loved the cinnamon rolls!
• Le Volpi e l’Ulva — a wine bar with tables spilling onto the sidewalk. It has an impressively extensive selection of Italian wine to pair with various meats, cheeses, and breads. Call or stop in to make reservations for the outdoor tables.
• Hostaria da Fulvio — a newer and slightly more upscale spot known for its intricately frescoed walls and its slightly more Mediterranean-inspired options. Book in advance or stop by to book for later in the week.

Best Gelato Shops in Oltrarno:

• Sbrino (My favorite), flavors change daily if you need an excuse to return!
• Gelateria Della Passera, incredibly rich & creamy (with lots of non-dairy options too)
• Gelateria Artigianale La Sorbettiera, several locations throughout Florence, with 3 in Oltrarno, and chances are, you’ll find yourself there more than once

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How to Spend a Day in Oltarno

• Stop 1: Begin your day with coffee and a pastry at Ditta Artigianale Via dell Sprone Specialty Coffee, one of my favorite coffee roasters.
• Stop 2: Head over to Pitti Palace and Boboli Garden to spend a few hours exploring the museum and adjacent gardens. There’s a lot to see here!
• Stop 3: When you depart the palace, head right across to the street of Sdrucciolo de’Pitti, which has two great shops of Miato Firenze, Le Telerie Toscane di Giulia G, and La Casa Della Stampa. It’s a great introduction to the artisans of Oltrarno. From there, continue to visit the Basilica di Santo Spirito and enjoy the Piazza Santo Spirito just in front.
• Stop 4: Book in lunch at Dalla Lola, a neighborhood classic for laidback Tuscan cuisine with a twist. It’s also close to DiVin Boccone, a wonderful wine store, and around the corner to Salumeria Pirgher Marzio.
• Stop 5: Explore the street of Via dei Serragli, which has so many gems. Find the Fotoautomatica here, Sbrino gelato, S.forno for baked goods, and a handful of vintage stores like Momo and Recollection by Albrici.
• Stop 6: Get late afternoon drinks at Loggia Roof Bar.
• Stop 7: Take a taxi up to Piazza Michelangelo for sunset. This is the best spot to get views of Florence, be sure to arrive ahead of time for a good spot.
• Stop 8: Book dinner at Trattoria Cammilo, our favorite trattoria in Florence.

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