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Fully updated April 2026. Originally published January 2019.

If you’re looking to plan a trip to Carmel-by-the-Sea, I have you covered with the best things to do, where to eat, and where to stay in California’s charming seaside village. Carmel is somewhere I’ve visited more than 20 times as a Northern California native. When it comes to a weekend escape, Carmel is one of my family’s go-to spots, so I’m sharing all of my local favorites.

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Carmel-by-the-Sea has to be one of the most idyllic towns in California. Its small and condensed downtown area intersects with roads leading down to the ocean. With charming architecture and these whimsical cottages, it literally looks like a scene from a fairytale. And because it’s so walkable, it makes for a great base to explore the Monterey Peninsula.

I absolutely adore the Monterey area, somewhere we go frequently — I think I’ve spent more time here than any other destination in California. Most recently, I spent time in Pacific Grove, the neighboring town, and I popped over to check out what’s new in Carmel. Carmel gets a handful of new restaurants, shops, and hotels every few years, so I like to update this guide as often as possible.

Of course, I have my go-to spots I never miss in town, like breakfast at Stationery, a stroll in the nearby Point Lobos Reserve, and dinner at Chez Noire. But it’s fun to see new places pop up. Carmel is a wonderful escape, and if you use it as a base, you can pop down to Big Sur for the day, or even go inland to Carmel Valley for wine tasting.

So I’ve taken the very best from twenty years of travel to Carmel-by-the-Sea and put it into this concise guide. These are the very best things to do in Carmel!

Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for the Best Hotels in Carmel-by-the-Sea

Hotels

  1. Le Petit Pali at 8th Ave ($$), for the best new hotel
  2. Villa Mara ($$$), for the best boutique hotel
  3. Carmel Valley Ranch ($$$), for the best luxury resort inland

Airbnbs

  1. 2 Bedroom Charming Cottage, for the best relaxing stay
  2. 2 Bedroom Fairytale Cottage, for the best located stay
  3. 4 Bedroom Mid-Century Modern House with Ocean Views, for the best large-group stay

Travel Tip: The best way to explore Carmel is by driving yourself. Picking up a rental car at SFO is quite easy, you just take the tram from baggage to the rental car center. We use Booking.com for our rental cars, choose full coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt. Book your car with Booking.com here.

Helpful Guides to Plan Your Trip

For more helpful resources, don’t miss my guides to the best hotels and restaurants in Carmel-by-the-Sea. If you’re planning to explore more of the area, I’d also check out my 72-hour Monterey itinerary, my Carmel Valley guide, my Big Sur travel guide, and my guide to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve.

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California


Travel Tips for Carmel-by-the-Sea

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Local's Weekend Guide
Gibson Beach at Point Lobos

When is the Best Time to Visit Carmel?

Carmel is one of those unique microclimates in California that makes it wonderful to visit year-round. I was there most recently in February, and it was warm enough to sit on the beach (and even get a sunburn!). You’ll most always have morning fog, but it burns off by noon or so.

For seasons, late winter into spring are lovely, and so are the fall months. I find the summer months to be really packed, often the most foggy too. The weather year-round is generally pleasant, sitting somewhere in the mid to high 60s. Pack layers!

How Many Days Do You Need to Visit Carmel?

To see Carmel itself, one full day will give you ample time to see the village area and then have an hour or two to spend down at the beach. However, to enjoy the greater Monterey Peninsula, I’d recommend spending two to three days in Carmel. It will give you the time to get to places like Carmel Valley, Big Sur, for the day, and pop over to Monterey for the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Local's Weekend Guide
Carmel Downtown

How to Get to Carmel From San Francisco or the Bay Area

To get to Carmel-by-the-Sea from San Francisco, drive south on Highway 1 for approximately 120 miles, enjoying breathtaking coastal views along the way. I would recommend leaving before or after the rush hour, which takes approximately two and a half hours or so.

What Airport Should I Fly Into to Go to Carmel-by-the-Sea

The three major airports in order of proximity are Monterey Regional Airport (MRY), then San Jose International Airport (SJC), and then San Francisco International Airport (SFO). The closest airport to Carmel is Monterey County Airport, so if you can get a flight into here, this is ideal. If you plan on exploring the area, a car is needed to get around. It’s an easy area to drive, and the coastline is beautiful for a road trip.

Travel Tip: The best way to explore the Northern California Coast is by driving yourself. We use Booking.com for our rental cars in California, choose full coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt. Book your car with Booking.com here.

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Local's Weekend Guide
Carmel Downtown, Ocean Avenue

Getting Around Carmel

Getting around the Carmel Village is easily done on foot; just park somewhere off Ocean Avenue and go from there. Be mindful of parking times, as most spots are metered for a few hours. If you book one of the hotels that have complimentary bikes, that is a nice way to explore the area, too. To reach further spots like Point Lobos or Carmel Valley, you will need a car.

Travel Tip: A quirky law back in 1963 went into place in the village that barred visitors from wearing heels! Originally put into place to protect Carmel from lawsuits, as the city is so hilly and uneven. Today you can go get a free high-heel permit at the City Hall — and do know, the law is more fun than it is enforced today!

What to Expect From Carmel Accommodations

I was just having this conversation a week ago with a friend who said, “I didn’t realize the hotels were like this in Carmel.” As it’s a small town with almost no new construction in terms of hotels, most of the hotels you see today have been renovated from former motels and hotels. What my friend was talking about was that she didn’t realize a lot of the hotels have out-facing doors into courtyards (sans a few properties).

So my recommendation is to expect very boutique and charming properties, often with select amenities due to the nature of the size of the property. The properties in Carmel are almost always dog-friendly, so if you’re traveling with a furry friend, know you’re in one of the most dog-friendly towns in California.


Where to Stay in Carmel-by-the-Sea

There are some incredible places to stay in the heart of Carmel, and it is my go-to area if I’m looking to be in a walkable area. It’s so nice to wake up, go for a stroll in the main Carmel-by-the-Sea village area, and then down to the beach. There are also a few memorable stays within earshot of Carmel, which I’m including if you want a more resort-style experience.

Le Petit Pali 8th Ave

I recently stayed at the Le Petit Pali on 8th Avenue and really enjoyed my time there. Le Petit Pali’s design and attention to thoughtful details, both in the room and common space, are just so well done. The rooms all face an inner courtyard with lots of common space to enjoy, and 8th Avenue sits in a much quieter part of Carmel-by-the-Sea. In the morning, the included breakfast with cook-to-order eggs, local pastries, and juices was definitely a big perk (it’s a proper breakfast!). With included bikes and a wonderful lounge space, it’s a great stay for the area. Just know that it’s small and quiet, but thoughtfully done.

Villa Mara

If I had to pick a splurge hotel for an adults-only hotel, it would be Villa Mara. One of the newest hotels to open in recent years, it’s all things luxury with 16 rooms and set in a neighborhood just a few blocks off the beach. It’s very quiet and tranquil, featuring spacious suites and rooms that are bright and airy. I toured the property this year, and plan to stay here on my next kids-free trip down to Carmel. With included Linus Bikes to use to explore and a daily breakfast, it’s a very romantic getaway for the area.

Hotel Carmel

Over the years, I’ve stayed at Hotel Carmel just a few blocks off Ocean Avenue. It’s an updated and minimal hotel, with outside doors facing into its central area. You’ll find a jacuzzi (one of the few properties with one in town) and these lovely firepits to use at night. One of my favorite parts of staying here is the bagel bar in the morning, included with the stay.

La Playa Hotel

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Local's Weekend Guide

A Carmel classic, you can’t go wrong at La Playa Hotel. It’s a sister property to Hotel Carmel and is one of the largest properties in town that has an almost resort feeling to it. As one of the only nice hotels in town to have a pool and many room categories, it sets up well for a group or family trip, too. The property was recently renovated since I was last there. I’ve heard the spaces feel wonderful and thoughtful. It’s home to Bud’s Bar as well, a classic for Carmel and known for its drinks and live music.

Carmel Valley Ranch

I’ve stayed at Carmel Valley Ranch three times now, just set inland about 15 minutes from Carmel Valley. This is one of my favorite resorts in California, for families and couples’ getaways, as it’s such a stunning property. Set up on the hill, with an incredible spa, four saltwater pools, and a restaurant, Carmel Valley Ranch really does have it all. One of my favorite parts of staying here as well is all of the ongoing activities alongside their “Ranch” program, which has farm animals and activities for all ages. If you’re looking to be close to Carmel-by-the-Sea but in nature, this is where to stay.

Carmel Beach Hotel

One of the properties I have bookmarked in Carmel is the newer Carmel Beach Hotel, set just a few blocks off of Carmel Beach. The hotel in general looks very modern and clean, with central firepit areas and easy access to both the village and beach. If you’re with a family and want to be close to the beach, this is a good option, and the hotel is dog-friendly. There’s a spa on-site as well as their well-known restaurant, Secoya.

Best Vacation Rentals in Carmel-by-the-Sea

  1. 2 Bedroom Charming Cottage, for the best relaxing stay
  2. 2 Bedroom Fairytale Cottage, for the best located stay
  3. 4 Bedroom Mid-Century Modern House with Ocean Views, for the best large-group stay

The Best Things to Do in Carmel, California

Spend Time in Carmel-by-the-Sea Village

The real draw of Carmel is the charming village downtown area, with all of its shops, galleries, and restaurants. If you use Ocean Avenue as your main area, there are several side streets across from 5th Avenue to 9th Avenue, and then down to the beach. All of it is very walkable, with several stores and cafes along the way.

I’ll point you in the right direction for food below, but for shops and galleries, I have a few favorites I love to stop into each time I’m there. I never leave empty-handed when in Carmel. The stores I love to go to are:

See Hidden Courtyards, Passageways, and Charming Cottages

A big part of the charm of Carmel-by-the-Sea is its storied architecture and hidden courtyards and passageways. I find myself just stumbling upon them as I walk through town, but you can definitely seek them out. A few favorites are the Secret Garden Passageway near the Pilgrim’s Bookstore, the Pantiles Court and Passageway, and San Carlos Square.

There are also some really charming cottages, some I’m sure you’ve seen on social too, because they’re popular to photograph. A lot of these cottages were built by Hugh Comstock and Michael J. Murphy in the 1920’s and are famous for their whimsical look, with swooping roofs and shuttered windows. Some of the most famous to visit are:

Go for a Hike in Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

If you’re looking to get outside, head to the scenic Point Lobos State Natural Reserve for a beautiful walk along the coast. You’ll be able to spot wildlife here like seals, sea otters, and even whales. The parking can be limited, so the earlier you start, the better.

It’s a very scenic area, with many viewpoints and iconic lookouts like Sea Lion Point and the Cypress Grove. I personally love to hike the Bird Island Trail, which passes by China Cove and then the stunning Gibson’s Beach. You can usually spot baby seals here in season. For more information, check out my guide to visiting Point Lobos, which has all my favorite trails and more.

Spend Time on the Scenic 17-Mile Drive

Considered one of the most beautiful drives in California, you can come here and drive through viewpoints like Pebble Beach. 17-Mile Drive is an icon of California’s coast, with several sign-posted stops along the way. If you haven’t done it yet, I think it’s worth doing at least once, either with a car or even by renting an E-bike.

Most recently, I went by E-bike, rented from Big Sur Adventures, and loved getting to pop in and out of the stops like Asilomar Beach and Seal Rock Beach. Some of the best stops include the Cypress Point Lookout, Crocker Cypress Grove, and Ford Meadow.

How Much is the 17-Mile Drive? Right now, it’s $12.50 per vehicle for a one-time entry per day. Motorcycles are prohibited. Free entry with bikes.

Spend Time at Carmel’s Beaches

There are a handful of wonderful beaches in Carmel, all very easy to access and get to. It’s good to know that the ocean and currents can be strong here, so it’s more of a hang by the water kind of place, unless you’re surfing. The main beach of Carmel is called Carmel Beach, and it’s the largest in the area, with lots of sandy areas, and is dog-friendly. You’ll find surfers here, and families hanging out on the beach.

My favorite one is tucked away from the main beach. Called Carmel River Beach, it’s up and around the corner, for a quieter beach to explore. It’s also an awesome spot for photos if you’re looking for a sunset place.

Go Wine Tasting in Carmel Valley

When in Carmel, you’re only 15 minutes away from Monterey’s famous wine region of Carmel Valley. I’d recommend getting out to Carmel Valley if you want to go wine tasting. A lot is going on out here, with dozens of wineries and even an entire village. Check out my Carmel Valley guide for more details.

Of the wineries I’ve been to, my favorites have been Folktale Winery and Holman Ranch. Both of these wineries are exceptional and do require reservations. Folktale Winery also has a wonderful food program, so you can eat lunch here too and enjoy the property as part of your visit.

Check out the Historic Carmel Mission

To get an idea of California’s history, the picturesque Carmel Mission is well worth a visit. The Carmel Mission, also known as Mission San Carlos Borromeo del río Carmelo, is a historic Spanish mission located just outside of Carmel-by-the-Sea’s downtown. Founded in 1770 by Father Junípero Serra, it is renowned for its picturesque architecture and serene gardens. It’s also the only Spanish mission in California that has its original bell and bell tower!

Spend a Morning at Refuge Spa

One of my favorite things we do every time in the area is booking time at the famous Refuge Spa. One of the most incredible spas in North America, it’s an outdoor and indoor spa with dozens of jacuzzis, pools, steam rooms, and the US’s largest dry sauna. It’s somewhere to go solo, with friends, or with a partner and unwind in Carmel Valley.

You’ll need to reserve in advance to get a time window here, so be sure to plan ahead. It’s also a cellphone-free zone, so good to know that you’ll be disconnected while here.

Get Sunset Drinks at Mission Ranch

I don’t know if there is a better spot to end the day than with sunset in Carmel out at Mission Ranch. An icon of the area, owned by Clint Eastwood, Mission Ranch is a go-to spot for sunset drinks on its back patio. It sits overlooking a grassy area and towards the beach. It’s also very popular for dinner, though I’ve heard recent mixed reviews on the food, so I’m inclined to say go for drinks until I try the food. After a drink, be sure to go for a stroll along the pathway near the sheep! The bar here is first-come, first-served.


The Best Restaurants in Carmel

There are many good eats throughout downtown Carmel and even down the coast. You can take your pick of the style of cuisine. I have a full guide on the best restaurants in Carmel-by-the-Sea and even one about the best restaurants in Monterey County. One thing is for sure: you almost always need a reservation!

Chez Noir

When it comes to the best restaurant right now in Carmel-by-the-Sea, it’s Chez Noir. It is an elevated European bistro that meets local California cuisine. The interior space is chic, the food is incredible, and you’ll want to reserve far in advance for a seat here at the Michelin-starred restaurant.

Stationæry

Stationæry opened a few years ago, and I love this bright and minimalist space that serves craft coffee and cozy brunch dishes for breakfast and lunch. I will eat anything on this menu, and I find that it’s well worth the wait for an elevated meal.

Akaoni

The Best Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Local's Weekend Guide
Akaoni

On my most recent trip, I finally made it into Akaoni. This tucked-away Japanese sushi bar and restaurant is a tough reservation to get, but if you can, do go. The owners are from Japan, and lovingly serve incredibly authentic Japanese cuisine. I could have eaten everything off the menu here, and I felt instantly transported back to Japan.

La Bicyclette

Probably one of the most timeless and classic spots in town is La Bicyclette. A French Cuisine and well-executed pizza restaurant, this is one spot to go to at least once. I personally prefer it for lunch when I’m visiting.

Nora’s Carmel

The new spot in town for brunch and burgers during the day and pastas at night, Nora’s, was a favorite of my husband’s most recent trip. I wasn’t able to get in, but the food looked delicious, and I can confirm it is. It’s super popular, so if you can snag a reservation, do so, as it’s packed, especially on weekends.

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Coffee Bar

Another newcomer to Carmel is Mad Dogs, the new go-to spot for coffee in town. I came here twice for a drink, and really loved it. They do have pastries, but both days were sold out by early afternoon.

Cultura Comida y Bebida

For elevated cuisine with Oaxacan flair, Cultura serves everything from a Mezcal tasting to lovely house-made salsas. One dish to not pass on is their grilled squash and Oaxacan Farm cheese in a tortilla — the best modern version of a quesadilla. For Mexican cuisine, this is my go-to.

Other Spots I Love and Have Eaten At


The Best Day Trips from Carmel

You’re close to so much when in Carmel, I’d recommend taking a few afternoon excursions or even a day trip from there!

Monterey

Just 15 minutes up Highway 1 is the town of Monterey. It’s home to a wharf area, famous for chowder houses and seeing the fishing boats coming back from their days out at sea. The Old Monterey area is a good spot to go to with kids, where you can then stroll down into Cannery Row. This is where the Monterey Bay Aquarium is, something I recommend to all ages, as it’s fantastically done. For more Monterey travel tips and what to do, see my guide to the best things to do in Monterey.

Big Sur

My next top choice for a day trip would be to go for a scenic drive south towards Big Sur. Along the way, there are many stops like Garrapata State Park for short hikes, to scenic viewpoints like the famous Bixby Bridge. You can spend a full day down in Big Sur, especially if you plan to hike or visit any of the beaches. There are a handful of restaurants along the way, and one scenic stop for a drink is Nepenthe. For more travel tips on Big Sur, check out my Big Sur travel guide.

Santa Cruz

Further north, Santa Cruz is the next main “city” along the California coast. It’s really well known for its beach boardwalk area and downtown, which has, in recent years, had a lot of development with new shops and restaurants. There are also beaches here, and the famous Steamer Lane for surfers.


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PS — Are You Booking a Trip Soon? Use My Booking Checklist!

These are the sites I use most to book my own trips. Using the links below is a great way to support Bon Traveler’s travel journalism at no extra cost to you. If you need help organizing your itinerary, get my free travel itinerary template here.

1. Book Your Accommodations

I use Booking.com for hotels and Airbnb for vacation rentals. They have the biggest inventory and consistently offer the best rates.

2. Book Your Rental Car

Self-driving is the best way to explore most destinations. I use Discover Cars for our rental cars, select full coverage insurance, and opt for a reputable company like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt.

3. Book Your Tours & Experiences

I use Viator, Airbnb, and Get Your Guide to find the best tours and experiences. They are my favorite tour search engines. I always check all three as their inventory varies depending on the destination.

4. Book Your Private Transfers

For easy, reliable private transfers, I use Welcome Pickups. It’s my go-to for arranging a driver in advance — whether it’s an airport pickup, a hotel-to-hotel transfer, or a day trip. The experience is seamless, with English-speaking drivers and upfront pricing, so you can travel stress-free at every stage of your trip.

5. Get Cell Data for Your Trip

I use Holafly for international cell data. Their unlimited data eSIMs are easy to install, activate instantly on arrival, and let you skip local SIM cards and expensive roaming fees.

6. Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

I never leave the country without travel insurance. It provides comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong (ie. illness, injury, theft, or cancellations).

My favorite companies that offer the best coverage and rates are:


Xx,
Jessica

4 Comments

  1. I call Carmel the fairy-tale town because of its dreamy houses. It is my favorite town in California and I was lucky enough to visit several times while I was living in the Bay Area. You post has brought back so many memories!

  2. Larry bragg Reply

    Love Carmel is the tux box tea room still in operation you didn’t mention it and it was always a great stop while there

    • Carmel by the Sea Reply

      One of the most comprehensive posts we’ve read on Carmel-by-the-Sea!

      Thanks for the beautiful pictures and for sharing 🙂

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